Soft Coral Care Guide: Leathers, Kenya Tree, Xenia and Star Polyps
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The short answer: Leathers, toadstools, Kenya trees, xenia, clove polyps, green star polyps and sympodium are beginner corals. Leathers and toadstools like moderate light with moderate to strong flow; Kenya trees, xenia, clove polyps, star polyps and sympodium do well under low to moderate light with moderate flow. Gorgonians are the exception in this group and want high light with strong, random flow. Leathers go on mid rockwork with room to grow, while fast spreaders such as xenia, Kenya trees, star polyps and sympodium belong on their own rock island. All of them are mostly photosynthetic, and the photosynthetic gorgonians covered here also benefit from occasional fine particulate feeding. Many other gorgonians and sea fans are non-photosynthetic and are not covered by this guide. Run carbon when leathers share the tank with other corals.
Quick facts
Facts are listed by group.
Toadstool and leather corals
| Care level | Beginner |
|---|---|
| Lighting | Moderate |
| PAR guidance | PAR 80–200 |
| Flow | Moderate to Strong |
| Placement | Mid rockwork with room to grow; run carbon |
| Behavior | Can grow large and periodically sheds a waxy surface film. |
| Compatibility | Allow room for growth, maintain good circulation, and use carbon when managing chemical competition. |
| Feeding | Mostly photosynthetic |
Kenya tree and xenia
| Care level | Beginner |
|---|---|
| Lighting | Low to Moderate |
| PAR guidance | PAR 60–150 |
| Flow | Moderate |
| Placement | Rock island; spreads fast |
| Behavior | Can spread by dropping branches that attach elsewhere in the aquarium. |
| Compatibility | Isolate when possible because dropped branches can establish throughout the aquarium. |
| Feeding | Mostly photosynthetic |
Clove and star polyps
| Care level | Beginner |
|---|---|
| Lighting | Low to Moderate |
| PAR guidance | PAR 60–150 |
| Flow | Moderate |
| Placement | Rock island; spreads fast |
| Behavior | Fast-spreading polyps form a mat across nearby rockwork. |
| Compatibility | Use a separate rock island when possible to keep the mat from overtaking neighboring corals. |
| Feeding | Mostly photosynthetic |
Sympodium
| Care level | Beginner |
|---|---|
| Lighting | Low to Moderate |
| PAR guidance | PAR 60–150 |
| Flow | Moderate |
| Placement | Rock island; encrusts and spreads |
| Behavior | Forms an encrusting mat that can spread across nearby rockwork. |
| Compatibility | Use a separate rock island when possible to control its encrusting spread. |
| Feeding | Mostly photosynthetic |
Gorgonians and sea fans
| Care level | Intermediate |
|---|---|
| Lighting | High |
| PAR guidance | PAR 150–300 |
| Flow | Strong, random or turbulent |
| Placement | Mid to upper rockwork with room for the branches to sway |
| Behavior | Flexible branches sway in current and extend polyps across the colony. |
| Compatibility | Low aggression; leave room for branch movement and avoid direct contact with neighboring corals. |
| Feeding | Mostly photosynthetic; benefits from occasional fine particulate feeding |
Light and placement
Start a new frag at the low end of its range and move it up only after it opens normally. For leathers and toadstools (Sarcophyton, Sinularia and relatives) that means mid rockwork under moderate light, with clear space around the base, because a toadstool cap can end up much wider than the frag it started as. For Kenya trees (Capnella), Xenia, clove polyps (Clavularia), green star polyps, pipe organ (Tubipora) and Sympodium, low to moderate light is enough, and the bigger question is where they are allowed to spread.
The rock island approach works best for the spreaders: a separate rock with sand between it and the main rockwork. The colony can cover its own rock without reaching the base of a stony coral. Green star polyps in particular are known to grow onto glass and equipment, so keep them away from pumps and overflow teeth.
Gorgonians are different. This guide covers photosynthetic gorgonians such as sea rods; many sea fans and other gorgonians have no symbiotic algae, depend entirely on filter feeding and are much harder to keep. The photosynthetic types sold in the hobby want high light, so place them mid to upper rockwork with enough open water around them that the branches can sway without brushing neighbors.
Move a coral into stronger light in steps, or raise the light gradually; tissue that stays shrunken or turns pale is a sign of too much too fast. Many soft corals close or contract for a few days after any move; give them time in one spot before moving them again.
Flow
Most soft corals in this group want moderate flow: enough to keep detritus from settling on the polyps and to sway the colony gently, without folding it flat. Leathers and toadstools take moderate to strong flow, which also helps them clear the waxy film they shed. Gorgonians need strong, random or turbulent flow from more than one direction, because their branches depend on moving water to stay clean and feed. Low flow on a gorgonian is a common reason for algae and detritus collecting on its branches.
Feeding
Every group in this guide is mostly photosynthetic. A healthy soft coral gets most of what it needs from light and from the dissolved and particulate food already in a stocked reef tank, so target feeding is not required. Gorgonians are the group that benefits most from occasional fine particulate feeding, such as a light broadcast of a fine reef food or phytoplankton with the flow running. Feed lightly: overfeeding mostly feeds nuisance algae.
Water parameters
Soft corals are known for tolerating a wider range of conditions than most stony corals, and many do fine with nutrients that are not ultra low. Most do not build a stony skeleton, so they draw little alkalinity and calcium on their own. Keep general reef ranges anyway, since they usually share the tank with other corals:
- Temperature: about 76–80°F
- Salinity: about 1.025–1.026 SG
- Alkalinity: about 7–11 dKH
- Calcium: about 400–450 ppm
- Magnesium: about 1250–1400 ppm
- Nitrate and phosphate: low but not zero
Stability matters more than hitting a perfect number. A tank held steady a little off target usually does better than one chasing a number with daily swings.
Neighbors and spacing
Soft corals rarely fight with sweeper tentacles. Their competition is chemical and physical.
- Leathers and toadstools release compounds into the water that can irritate other corals, especially stony corals nearby. Give them space, keep circulation good, and run activated carbon, changing it on a regular schedule.
- Xenia and Kenya trees spread quickly. Kenya trees drop branches that drift and attach elsewhere, so isolate them on their own rock when you can.
- Clove polyps, green star polyps and sympodium form mats that can overgrow neighboring corals. A rock island keeps the mat in one place.
- Gorgonians are low aggression, but their branches should not rest against other corals.
Soft corals can be stung by aggressive LPS, so keep them out of reach of sweeper tentacles too. Wear gloves when cutting or handling corals; some corals irritate skin.
Common problems
- Leather or toadstool stays closed for days with a shiny, waxy look. Usual cause: normal shedding, or adjusting after a move. Most reefers wait, keep flow steady so the film can peel away, and check parameters before changing anything.
- Xenia stops pulsing or shrinks. Causes vary and are debated; sudden changes in water chemistry, light or flow are commonly suspected. Reefers check and stabilize parameters rather than adding supplements on a guess.
- Green star polyps or clove polyps not opening. Usual cause: a new spot, a change in flow, or algae and detritus on the mat. Reefers keep flow moderate, clear algae from the base, and give the colony time.
- Soft coral spreading onto other corals or equipment. Usual cause: no physical barrier. Reefers trim it back, scrape it off equipment, and move what remains to a rock island.
- Gorgonian with bare or algae-covered branch sections. Usual cause: low flow, detritus build-up or shading. Reefers increase random flow, gently clear algae and detritus, and keep the colony clear of neighbors.
As with any coral, dip and inspect new frags before they go into the display.
How our listings work
TIA listings come in three kinds:
- WYSIWYG: The photo is taken individually, and you will receive the exact coral shown.
- Stock: The photo is a stock reference image; yours will be very similar.
- Cut to order: You receive a fresh-cut frag of about 1–2 inches from the colony shown; it will be very similar. Fresh-cut frags need at least 2 weeks to heal before they ship.
See the Help Center for shipping and arrival details.
FAQ
Are soft corals good for beginners?
Yes. Leathers, toadstools, Kenya trees, xenia, clove polyps, star polyps and sympodium are beginner corals. Gorgonians are rated intermediate because they need high light and strong, random flow.
Why did my toadstool leather close up?
Toadstools and leathers periodically shed a waxy surface film and stay closed while they do. A recent move can also cause this. Steady flow helps the film come off.
Do I need to feed soft corals?
Not usually. They are mostly photosynthetic. Gorgonians benefit from occasional fine particulate feeding.
Why should I run carbon with leather corals?
Leathers can release compounds that irritate other corals. Activated carbon helps remove those compounds from the water, alongside good circulation and enough space between corals.
How do I keep green star polyps or xenia from taking over?
Put them on a rock island separated from the main rockwork by sand. Trim the colony back as needed, and keep green star polyps away from glass and pumps.
Can soft corals live with SPS and LPS corals?
Yes, in many mixed reefs. Leave space, run carbon when you keep leathers, keep spreaders on their own rock, and keep soft corals out of reach of LPS sweeper tentacles.