Stylophora, Pocillopora and Psammocora Care Guide
The short answer: Stylophora, Pocillopora and birdsnest (Seriatopora) are intermediate branching SPS corals that want moderate to high light (about PAR 150–300) and moderate to strong flow on mid to upper rockwork. Psammocora is a little easier, rated beginner to intermediate, and does well with moderate light (about PAR 100–250) and moderate flow on mid rockwork. All of them are mostly photosynthetic, so stable water and good light matter more than feeding. Give each one room to grow, because dense branching or encrusting growth fills space quickly.
Quick facts
| Quick facts | Stylophora & Pocillopora | Psammocora |
|---|---|---|
| Care level | Intermediate | Beginner to Intermediate |
| Lighting | Moderate to High | Moderate |
| PAR guidance | PAR 150–300 | PAR 100–250 |
| Flow | Moderate to Strong | Moderate |
| Placement | Mid to upper rockwork | Mid rockwork |
| Behavior | Dense branching growth can expand quickly under stable conditions. | Compact polyps form branching or encrusting growth over nearby rock. |
| Compatibility | Leave space for branch growth and keep away from aggressive sweepers. | Allow room for its growth edge and avoid contact with more aggressive corals. |
| Feeding | Mostly photosynthetic | Mostly photosynthetic |
What these corals are
- Stylophora forms thick, blunt branches covered in small polyps that often extend during the day.
- Pocillopora grows into dense, bushy branches with a bumpy surface. It is often among the faster-growing SPS in a stable tank.
- Birdsnest (Seriatopora) grows thin, pointed branches that tangle into a nest shape. The branches are brittle and snap easily when handled.
- Psammocora has very small, compact polyps and grows as branches or as a crust over nearby rock.
The first three share the same care needs. Psammocora has its own, with slightly lower light and flow.
Light and placement
For Stylophora, Pocillopora and birdsnest, the target is PAR 150–300 on mid to upper rockwork. Psammocora wants PAR 100–250 on mid rockwork. Start any new frag at the lower end of its range and move it up over a couple of weeks if the polyps keep extending and the tissue stays intact. Moving a frag straight into strong light can cause paling or bleaching.
Choose a spot with room to grow. A small branching frag can become a dense bush, and Psammocora will spread over the rock around its base. Glue frags firmly; branching corals that rock in the flow often fail to encrust.
Flow
Stylophora, Pocillopora and birdsnest want moderate to strong flow, and Psammocora wants moderate flow. In all cases, random or alternating flow that moves water through the branches is better than one steady jet. Dense bushes trap detritus in the middle, where dead spots can lead to tissue loss, so make sure water reaches the inside of the colony.
Feeding
All four are mostly photosynthetic and do not need target feeding. Normal fish feeding, along with nitrate and phosphate kept low but not at zero, covers their needs. Their polyps can catch very small particles, so occasional fine foods added to the tank will not hurt, but feeding will not make up for unstable water or poor light.
Water parameters
Use general reef ranges and hold them steady. Stability matters more than a perfect number. Stylophora and birdsnest in particular are widely reported to react quickly to swings in temperature or alkalinity.
- Temperature: about 76–80°F, avoiding sudden changes
- Salinity: about 1.025–1.026 SG
- Alkalinity: about 7–11 dKH, kept steady
- Calcium: about 400–450 ppm
- Magnesium: about 1250–1400 ppm
- Nitrate and phosphate: low but not zero
Neighbors and spacing
These corals have weak defenses against stinging LPS. Keep them clear of corals with long sweeper tentacles, such as Galaxea, Euphyllia or Hydnophora. Their own growth is the main risk to neighbors: a fast-growing Pocillopora or Stylophora bush can shade or touch nearby corals, so trim it back when it starts crowding. Psammocora's growth edge can creep onto other colonies, so leave a gap and keep it away from more aggressive corals.
Common problems
- Tissue peeling from the base or branch tips. The usual cause is a swing in alkalinity or temperature, or a pest. Reefers check recent test results, keep conditions steady, and inspect the coral closely.
- Polyps detaching and the skeleton left bare. Pocillopora and birdsnest are known to release their polyps, sometimes called polyp bailout, after severe stress. Reefers look for the cause, such as a temperature spike or sudden chemistry change, and fix it right away.
- Paling or bleaching after placement. The usual cause is too much light too fast. Reefers move the coral lower and acclimate it slowly.
- Dead center in a dense colony. The usual cause is poor flow inside the branches. Reefers improve circulation or frag the colony to open it up.
- Broken birdsnest branches. These are brittle. Broken pieces can be glued down as new frags.
Dipping new frags in a coral dip before adding them to the display is standard practice for keeping pests out.
How our listings work
TIA lists these corals as stock: the photo is a stock reference image, and yours will be very similar.
See the Help Center for shipping and arrival details.
FAQ
Is Stylophora or Pocillopora easier than Acropora?
Many reefers find them more forgiving than Acropora, but they are still rated intermediate. They need moderate to high light, good flow and stable alkalinity and temperature.
How much light does Psammocora need?
The recommended range is PAR 100–250, with moderate lighting on mid rockwork.
Why are the polyps on my Stylophora not coming out?
Healthy Stylophora usually show polyps during the day. If they stay retracted, check for recent changes in temperature, alkalinity, light or flow, and look for pests or fish picking at it.
Can Pocillopora spread around the tank?
Some Pocillopora, especially the commonly kept Pocillopora damicornis types, brood larvae that can settle and grow elsewhere in the tank. Not every colony does this. If new colonies appear where you do not want them, they can be removed while small.
How do I frag a birdsnest?
Snip a branch with bone cutters, then glue it firmly to a plug. Handle it gently, since the branches break easily.