Euphyllia Care Guide: Torch, Hammer and Frogspawn Corals
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The short answer: Torch, hammer and frogspawn corals (Euphyllia) are intermediate large-polyp stony (LPS) corals that do well under moderate reef lighting, roughly PAR 90–180. They want moderate, indirect flow that makes the tentacles sway without pinning them flat. Place them at mid-level with plenty of open space around them, because their sweeper tentacles sting neighbors. Feeding is optional: they get most of their energy from light, and light target feeding 1–2x weekly is a bonus, not a requirement.
Quick facts
| Topic | Euphyllia (torch, hammer, frogspawn) |
|---|---|
| Care level | Intermediate |
| Lighting | Moderate |
| PAR guidance | PAR 90–180 |
| Flow | Moderate, indirect sway |
| Placement | Mid-level with room for tentacle extension; stings neighbors |
| Behavior | Long tentacles sway with indirect flow and may extend sweepers at night. |
| Compatibility | Allow generous spacing; sweeper tentacles can sting neighboring corals. |
| Feeding | Optional target feeding 1–2x weekly |
Torch, hammer and frogspawn: what is the difference?
All three share the same basic body plan: a hard skeleton topped by large, fleshy polyps with long tentacles that move in the current. The trade names come from the tentacle tips.
- Torch (Euphyllia glabrescens) has long tubular tentacles with small rounded tips, and always grows as a branching coral with separate heads.
- Hammer (Euphyllia ancora and close relatives) has tips shaped like a hammerhead, an anchor or a crescent.
- Frogspawn (Euphyllia divisa and Euphyllia paradivisa) has tentacles that split into several small knobby tips, like a cluster of eggs.
Hammers and frogspawn come in two growth forms. Branching pieces have separate round or oval heads on individual stalks, which makes them simple to frag. Wall pieces grow as one continuous, winding ridge of tissue. Care is the same for both forms. Hobby trade names such as "frammer" (tips between a hammer and a frogspawn) and "octospawn" describe tentacle shapes, not separate species.
A note on names: recent molecular research moved hammer and frogspawn into their own genus, Fimbriaphyllia, while the torch stays in Euphyllia. The reef trade still sells all three as Euphyllia, and the care below applies to all of them.
Light and placement
Moderate light is the target. Too little and the polyps slowly shrink; too much and the tissue can pale or stay partly retracted. A mid-level spot on the rockwork, away from the brightest point under the light, suits most pieces.
When adding a new frag, start it in a lower-light spot on the low end of the PAR range, or reduce your lighting intensity for a while, then move it up in small steps over a few weeks. Watch the polyps: full, even extension is a good sign; tissue that pulls back from the skeleton or turns pale means the light is too strong for now.
Leave room on every side. Fully extended polyps are much larger than the skeleton under them, and the coral grows wider over time.
Flow
Aim for moderate, indirect flow that keeps the tentacles in a gentle, steady sway. Strong direct flow is a common problem with Euphyllia: the soft tissue gets pushed against the sharp ridges (septa) of its own skeleton, which can tear it and lead to tissue loss. If the polyps are pinned flat, bent to one side all day, or not fully inflating, the flow is too strong or too direct. Very weak flow lets detritus settle in the polyps, which is not healthy either.
Feeding
Euphyllia are photosynthetic and get most of their nutrition from the algae living in their tissue, so feeding is optional. Many reefers offer small meaty foods (finely chopped seafood, mysis or a fine coral food) once or twice a week. Turn off the pumps for a few minutes, release a small amount of food gently near the polyps, and do not force large chunks into the mouth. A healthy tank with moderate nutrient levels often keeps these corals looking full without direct feeding.
Water parameters
- Temperature: about 76–80°F
- Salinity: about 1.025–1.026 SG
- Alkalinity: about 7–11 dKH
- Calcium: about 400–450 ppm
- Magnesium: about 1250–1400 ppm
- Nitrate and phosphate: low but not zero; most LPS do better with measurable nutrients than in an ultra-low system
Stability matters more than any perfect number. Pick a value inside each range and hold it steady; sudden swings, especially in alkalinity, salinity or temperature, are more likely to cause retraction than a steady value at either end of the range.
Neighbors and spacing
Euphyllia are among the more aggressive LPS corals. Their regular tentacles already sting, and at night they can extend longer sweeper tentacles that damage corals within reach. Keep several inches of open space between a Euphyllia and other corals, and plan for the polyps' full extended size, not the size of the skeleton.
Different Euphyllia can also sting each other. Many reefers report that hammers and frogspawn often tolerate touching, while torches tend to be less tolerant of other corals and other torches, but results vary from tank to tank. Treat any contact as a risk until you have watched it for a while.
Clownfish sometimes adopt a torch or hammer as a host. Some colonies accept it; others stay partly retracted under the constant contact. If a hosted coral starts to decline, separating them is the usual fix.
Common problems
- Polyps stay retracted for days: usually a recent parameter swing, flow that is too strong or direct, a stinging neighbor, or a fish picking at the tissue. Check and stabilize parameters first, then look at flow and neighbors.
- Tissue receding from the skeleton: often tissue tearing on the skeleton in strong flow, contact with an aggressive coral, or ongoing instability. Reefers usually reduce direct flow, move the coral away from contact, and keep conditions steady.
- Brown, slimy jelly on a head: this is the well-known "brown jelly" infection that Euphyllia are prone to, and it can spread quickly. Most reefers act right away: remove the coral to a separate container, gently blow or siphon the jelly off, give it an iodine dip, and if one head on a branching piece is affected, cut that head off to protect the rest.
- Pale or white tissue: usually too much light after a move, a lighting change or a temperature spike. Lower the light or move the coral down, and keep temperature stable.
- Shrinking polyps over weeks: often too little light or very low nutrients. A slightly brighter spot or light feeding usually helps.
How our listings work
TIA listings come in three kinds:
- WYSIWYG: The photo is taken individually, and you will receive the exact coral shown.
- Stock: The photo is a stock reference image; yours will be very similar.
- Cut to order: You receive a fresh-cut frag of about 1–2 inches from the colony shown; it will be very similar. Fresh-cut frags need at least 2 weeks to heal before they ship.
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FAQ
Are torch, hammer and frogspawn corals good for beginners?
They are intermediate corals. They are not difficult, but they need stable water, moderate light and indirect flow, so they suit reefers who have kept easier corals in a stable tank first.
Can I put a hammer next to a frogspawn?
Many reefers find that hammers and frogspawn tolerate each other, but it does not hold in every tank. Torches are generally less tolerant. Give every Euphyllia some space and watch closely if any two touch.
Do Euphyllia need to be fed?
No. They get most of their energy from light. Optional target feeding 1–2x weekly with small meaty foods can support them, but it is not required.
Why are my torch's tentacles not extending?
The most common causes are a recent change in parameters, flow that is too strong, a new or stinging neighbor, or a fish bothering it. A new coral can also stay smaller for a few days while it settles in.
What is the difference between wall and branching hammers?
Branching hammers have separate heads on individual stalks; wall hammers grow as one continuous ridge of tissue. Their care is the same. Branching pieces are simpler to frag because each head can be cut off separately.
What does brown jelly on my Euphyllia mean?
It is a fast-moving tissue infection. Remove the coral from the display, clean the jelly off, dip it, and remove any badly affected head before it spreads to the rest.